Minutes Matter Quick Tips

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Quick Tips

Fabrics & linings:

Interlinings:

English Bump - Very thick, soft form of interlining.
Heavy Weight Flannel or Interlining Plus - Heavier than regular interlining, but not as heavy as table felt.
Table Felt - Very thick heavy form of interlining. (stiffer than English Bump)
Always interline silk treatments.
Cut interlining, let it rest for 24 hours before fabrication. Interlining becomes stretched when rolled on tube from mill. Interlining returns to original size when allowed to rest.
Interlining can be put in face fabric hems of draperies, dust ruffles & top treatments.
Instead of seaming interlining, join seams by overlapping.

Linings:

Black lining:

Use for a blackout look.
Use four or five layering method of fabrics:
1. Four layers - 1st face fabric, 2nd interlining, 3rd black lining, 4th lining. (Note: When using a light colored face fabric, black lining turns face fabric a slight gray color.)
2. Five layers - 1st face fabric, 2nd interlining, 3rd lining, 4th black lining, 5th lining.

Blackout lining:

Blackout lining can be stiff, Roc-lon Un-Vinyl has a very soft hand.
Provides total black out.
TIP: Pin or needle holes show through treatment during daylight hours.
If possible, check cuts for flaws on blackout lining with a light machine.
Glue baste widths of blackout lining together before sewing to avoid pin holes.
Spray machine & back of blackout lining with silicone to make stitching easier.

Ivory & White lining:
1. Use ivory lining whenever possible, has a softer look than white.
2. Ivory lining can change the color of face fabric.
3. White lining keeps color true on face fabric..
Tan or Putty colored linings:
1. Use as lining for window treatments, coverlets or duvets.
2. For an upscale look on draperies use colored linings. Great for home with brown & beige colored exteriors.
Thermal Suede - Heavier than regular lining & has a rubber backing for insulation.
Lining color should be coordinated across front of client's house.
Place linings behind face fabric, hold layers up to light to test for change in color.

Maintaining & cleaning fabrics: (always test on scrap fabric first)
1. Grease - Janie Stick (a powder stick), Dawn dishwashing liquid, Rowley's Crease Away, CarboSol, Energine or baby powder.
2. Blood stain - Moisten a cloth with your saliva.
3. Ink -- Hair spray
4. General stains - Fantastic cleaner works great on polyester or poly cotton blends.
5. Trim Adhesive - To remove, use denatured alcohol or mineral spirits.
6. Dry cleaning - Clients should use a dry cleaner that specializes in draperies & bedding. Their solvent is not as harsh as normal dry cleaners. They usually guarantee no shrinkage.
Protecting fabrics:
1. Use Fabri-Coate from Guardsman to protect cushions, slipcovers, etc.
Shower liners (extra long):
1. Use nylon shower liners instead of vinyl. Nylon is softer & lasts longer.
2. Extra long nylon & vinyl liners can be ordered from Bradford's of Tampa or Williamson Supply. Most nylon liners from these companies are waterproof.
3. Use Vinyl Deco Fold, color: Frosty Clear liner if there is no light in shower. Frosty clear color allows light&still gives privacy.
4. Vinyl liners can be trimmed to any length.

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Installations:

Blinds on commercial metal doors:
1. When one side of bar handle is against the door, use a metal spacer to project the handle. (purchase from Jillze - see Sources)
Functional draperies on wood poles with rings:
1. Spray top of wood rod with silicone a couple of times before hooking draperies on rings. Leave can of silicone with client for spraying pole if drapery rings start grabbing.
2. When draperies are extremely heavy, use silicone in the tube & rub on with fingertips. Leave tube with client.
General:
1. Use Quick Grips as an extra set of hands when installing by yourself.
2. Use white angles instead of silver for a special look underneath treatment. (be sure to paint screw heads) (Rowley Co.)
3. Wear a tool belt to keep tools, brackets & screws at hands reach.
4. Paint screw heads with markers. (Rowley Co.)
5. Trace brackets from each vendor & record measurements for deductions when mounting draperies to rings. For easy reference keep all pages organized in a folder.
Mattress sizes for beds:
1. Twin - 39" x 75"
2. Full - 54" x 75"
3. Queen - 60" x 80"
4. King - 78" x 80"
5. California King - 72" x 84"
6. (Mattress settings can vary, however, these are the most common sizes.)
Pin setting for drapery hooks:
1. Standard traverse rod - 1¾"
2. Ceiling mount traverse rod - 1½"
3. Under draperies on double traverse - 1¼"
4. Decorative traverse rod with rings - ½"
5. Ringless decorative traverse rod - 7/8 "
6. Wood rings with eyelets - ½"
7. Above settings are measured from top of pin to top of drapery.
8. (Pin settings can vary, however, these are the most common pin settings.)
Pleated draperies:
1. To calculate stack of pleated draperies: Pleats per width - 5 (pleats per half width - 2). Stackback equals 1.33 x window width for standard weight drapery fabrics and 1.25 x window width for sheers.
2. Standard overlap & return for pleated draperies is 3½".
3. Sell Casement fabrics as unstable goods. This fabric changes with the humidity in the air.
Return for pleated draperies:
1. Regular/one layer - 3½"
2. Double traverse/two layers - 5½"

Rod pockets:

Rod Type	Suggested Rod Pocket	Take Up
¾" Curtain Rod&Oval Rodding	1½"	½"
Continental I (4½" rod)	5½"	½"
Continental II (2½" rod)	3"	½"
Wood Pole (2" dia.)	4"	1½"
Wood Pole (1 3/8" dia.)	3"	1¼"
Pinacle Rod	7"	2½"
(Use a larger rod pocket when a smaller stack is needed. Take up varies with type of fabric.)

Top treatment projections:
1. Single treatment (roman shades or treatment over kitchen sink) - 1 x 2 board
2. Single treatment (top treatment over regular window) - 1 x 4 board
3. Double treatment (top treatment & drapery) - 1 x 6 board
4. Triple treatment (top treatment, drapery & sheer) - 1 x 8 board

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Sewing:

Use clear rules for easy reading.
Use a rotary cutter & rubber mat to cut strips for welting & any long cuts. (use self-healing rubber mats)
Use metal rules to cut banding straight.
Use various size metal rules i.e., 1", 1½" or 2" to draw mounting lines on board. Width of rule serves as mounting line guide.
Use the Purple Thang for turning & poking. (see Sources - Sewing supplies/Clotilde)
Use large plastic head push pins #4435. (mounting treatments on boards) (Atlanta Thread & Supply)
Use Newey glass headed pins in workroom. (see Sources - Sewing supplies)
Use brass roman shade rings instead of plastic. (will not sun rot & makes a smaller bite on front of fabric) (Rowley Co.)
Use a Cord Condenser to reduce multiple cords into one lift cord. (Rowley Co.)
Use binding & hem clips or jumbo paper clips instead of pins when working with blackout fabric. (Clotilde)
Attach printed fabric labels in side hems of draperies or staple on underneath side of top treatment. A great marketing tool.
Hand sewing:
1. Use 2" - 3" curved needles when sewing pillow closures or attaching rosettes to treatments or pillows. (see sources - Upholstery suppliers)
2. Use #4 milliners needles for drapery & side hems. (see Sources - Sewing supplies/Sew True)
3. Wax all thread with beeswax. (stops breaking & tangles)
4. Rice's Silamide thread is waxed & precut. (Atlanta Thread & Supply)
5. Use Buttonhole Twist thread for pillows & cushion closures & attaching buttons.
6. Use a 12" - 14" upholstery needle with a bayonet point (a cutter) to sew buttons on ends of neckrolls or bolsters. (see Sources - Upholstery suppliers)
Half Pole Smooth Cover Cuts (2 ½"):
1. Cut 9" x length of pole, plus 2" (turn under allowance).
2. Serge top & bottom of cover.
3. Turn under 1" on each end & staple fabric to back side of pole. Staple fabric flush with end of pole.
4. Option: Leave ¾" of fabric to staple or glue to pole end.
Half Pole Shirred Cover Cuts (2 ½"):
1. Cut 10" x length of pole x 3 (fullness).
2. Serge top & bottom of cover.
3. Gather top & bottom edge. (gather each cut to 18")
4. Turn under 1" on each end & staple fabric to back side of pole. Staple fabric flush with end of pole.
5. Option: Leave ¾" of fabric to staple or glue to pole end.
Hems for drapery linings:
1. Doubled 4" hem in face fabric = doubled 3" hem in lining
2. Doubled 5" hem in face fabric = doubled 4" hem in lining.
3. (Top of face fabric & lining hem should be at same height. Lining will be 1" shorter.)
Millennium tape: (see Sources/Sewing supplies)
1. Do not sew over millennium tape, it will gum up needle on machine.
2. Burnish tape to make tape adhere to surface.
  1. Apply tape to item.
  2. While paper backing is still on tape, use back of fingernail & rub across tape.
  3. Peel off paper backing & press the other layer on top of tape.
3. Millennium tape is not dry cleanable.
4. Tape bonds stronger with time.
Needles (sewing machine):
1. Sharpen needles by stitching a few stitches through sandpaper.
2. A burr on a needle is the most common reason for poor stitching.
3. Machine needles:
  1. Upholstery weight fabric use #18 - #22 size needle.
  2. Medium weight fabrics use #14 - #16 size needle. (standard)
  3. Light weight fabrics use #10 or #11 size needles. (sheers)
Notches:
1. Notches can be made by folding front&back fabrics together&making a small cut in seam allowance.
2. Cut notches in any treatment or pillow to keep front&back lined up.
3. A Notcher can be used for making notches. (see Sources - Equipment&tools/Southstar Supply Co.)
Proportions:
1. Dust ruffles should have 2½-1 to 3-1 fullness. Upholstery fabrics 2 x fullness.
2. Draperies (stationary) on double window use 1 - 1½ widths of fabric, triple window use 1½-2½ widths of fabric.
3. Draperies (Cuffed, Ruched or Cupped) 1¾-1 fullness.
4. Jabots lengths should be 2/5 - 3/5 of total treatment height to floor.
5. Sheers should have 3-1 to 5-1 fullness.
6. Swags should be 1/5 of total treatment height to floor.
7. Top treatments should be 1/5 of total treatment height to floor.
Stitching - no slip: a. With both hands approx. 8" - 10" apart, grab a section of fabric layers to be stitched. One hand will be in front of the needle&the other hand behind the needle. b. Stitch held section of fabric. Don't pull, just hold. c. With needle down into fabric, release hands. Grab next section to be stitched, etc.

Welting cuts w/ ½"&¾" (serging) seam allowance:

Cording size	Cuts w/ ½"	Cuts w/ ¾"	Turned on bias
1.8mm (roman shade lift cord)	1½"	2"	1¾"
4/32"	1½"	2"	1¾"
6/32"	1½"	2"	2"
10/32"	2"	2¾"	2¼"
12/32"	2¼"	2¾"	2½"
16/32"	2½"	2¾"	3"
22/32"	3½"	4"	3¾"
1"	5"	5"	5"

TIPS:

Serged welting allows for a ¾" seam on industrial machines.
Use 4/32" covered welting between seams of duvets or bedspreads.
String welting (1.8mm) can be used on edges of swags&jabots, top treatment edges&pillows. It makes turning swags&jabots easier. This small added detail gives a great finished look.
Good cording sizes to stock are 4/32", 6/32", 10/32"&22/32" or 1" (for jumbo welting).
When fabric ravels add ¼" to cut size.
For an easy reference, record all three cut sizes on top of cording spools.
Trim all seams to ¼" before turning.

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Workroom:

Use an air compressor with a special air blowing nozzle to blow off worktables.
Use a tape lint roller to clean off tables.
Make long wooden bins under work table to store tape measures, electric cutter, extra scissors, stapler, metal rules, etc.
Line off worktable with permanent lines. (Use a Super Permanent Sharpie, Industrial strength. Industrial Sharpies will not bleed when steam is used on table.)
Mark vertical rows in romans & balloons using a template made from vanes of a PVC vertical. Punch a hole every 6" with a paper hole punch. (make a template for each different ring spacing used in workroom)
Use plexiglass corner templates for making different radius corners. (Katie's Korner Radial Rule) (Brewer Sewing Supplies)
Use a Stiletto to save fingers when working close to machine needle. (Brewer Sewing Supplies)
Diameters (circles):
1. Make a beam compass to draw large circles.
  1. Use a 1 x 2 or preference, drive a nail into one end.
  2. Attach a flat carpenter's pencil at desired measurement with small clamp.
2. Beam compass integrated with a tape measure #23227 (Rotape). (Rockler Company)
3. Tape a pencil or disappearing pen to a metal rule at desired measurement.
4. Use EZ Circle Marker for circles 1" - 18". (Nancy's Notions)
Fractions:
1. To divide fractions; double bottom number of fraction i.e., 3/8 = 3/16 or 3/4 = 3/8.
2. To convert fractions to decimals; divide top number by bottom number i.e., 3/8 = 3÷8 = .375
Machine Maintenance:
1. Oil machines weekly.
2. Blow out machines weekly to remove all lint.
3. Change oil in machines once a year.
4. Replace a bent bobbin case.
5. When bobbin is back lashing, put a drop of oil in back of bobbin case.
6. Use R-33 instead of WD40. R-33 lasts for 9 months, WD40 lasts 8 hours.
7. Use carbide blades on top&bottom of serger.
8. To adjust tension on blindstitch machine; loosen tension all the way, then tighten a little at a time until looping stops&stitch is correct.
9. Run serger thread through beeswax a couple of times for ease when threading serger.
Pattern filing:
1. Set up a filing system for patterns made in workroom.
2. Set up several categories i.e., Arches, Swags, Top Treatment, Pillows, Misc, etc.
3. Type a master list with categories. As you make a pattern, add new pattern to one of the main categories.
4. Place each pattern in a 12 x 14 manila envelope. Glue a picture to front of each envelope. Label each envelope with a title. Put main category number with a letter for each different pattern. Example for a swag: Tailored Swag&Jabot w/Bell or Necktie 6b. The "6" denotes category which is Swags and "b" indicates that it is the second pattern made in this category. Write pattern numbers in a top corner. Write title with black marker&numbering with a red marker. Label each pattern piece inside envelope with pattern number&letter.
Pillows:
1. Make a template from heavy plastic or plexiglass with a 5" diameter circle in center. The 5" circle helps to find the center immediately. Make templates for most common pillow sizes.
2. Standard pillow sizes:
  1. Regular/Standard - 20" x 26"
  2. Queen - 20" x 30"
  3. King - 20" x 36"
  4. Body - 20" x 60"
  5. Euro - 27" x 27" or 26" x 26"
  6. Neckroll - 6" x 17"
  7. Neckroll/Bolster - 8" x 23"
  8. (Pillow sizes can vary, however, these are the most common sizes.)
Pressing:
1. Cut a cardboard fabric tube 18", cover with batting & lining. Use tube as a pressing aid for hard to reach areas.
2. To prevent shrinkage problems, steam press fabrics before fabrication.
Shredded or chipped foam:
1. Foam is hard to get off clothing.
2. When working with shredded foam, cover yourself with a plastic dry-cleaning bag.
3. Stick head through opening at top of bag. Cut holes for arms.
Thread:
1. Gutermann is a high quality multi-purpose thread.
2. Serger thread - A very fine Polyester #1276 size #15 for lightweight fabrics & sheers. (Atlanta Thread & Supply Co.)
3. Serger thread - All purpose/extra strength cotton covered polyester thread #1061 size 60/36 Coats American Dual Duty for all fabrics. (Atlanta Thread & Supply Co.)
4. Serger thread - Fine thread/extra strength cotton covered polyester thread #1022 100/60 Coats American Dual Duty. (Atlanta Thread & Supply Co.)
5. Rice's Silamide for hand sewing. (pre-cut, waxed thread)
6. For accurate thread colors, purchase color charts.
7. Use Button-hole twist thread for sewing pillow openings.

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Workroom Tools:

Air compressors & air tools:
1. Use quick connect fittings for hoses & air tools.
2. Use a pig tail recoil hose. (Hose has a straight end, which makes working with hose easier.)
3. Put a drop of oil in each air tool before use. (use only recommended oil for your air tool)
4. Use a Blo Gun nozzle to blow off work tables & blow out machines. (see Sources - Equipment & tools)
5. Use a light weight stapler for general fabrication in workroom. (Duo-Fast #TI-3118A, uses 3/16" - 9/16" staples) (see Sources - Equipment & tools)
6. Use a braid nailer for constructing cornice boards. (Duo-Fast #DBN-440, uses ½" - 1¼" staples) (see Sources - Equipment & tools)
Buttons:
1. Junior No. 1 Button Machine - A great time saver when making a lot of covered buttons. (#T5541) (see Sources - Equipment & tools/Farber Sales Co., Inc.)
2. Dies must be purchased for each size button.
3. Good sizes to stock, #36, #45&#60. Add interlining to button for softer look.
4. Use a small piece of millennium tape on top of button to stabilize slick fabrics.
Bostitch P3 Stapler - Use this stapler in place of pins. (plier stapler) Example: Staple box pleats at top of treatment before mounting. Staples hold layers in place. (see Sources - Equipment & tools/Atlanta Thread&Supply)
Chickadee-B Cutter - A corded electric rotary cutter. Cuts through many thicknesses. (see Sources - Equipment & tools/Workroom Concepts)
Dritz Electric Scissors - An inexpensive cordless/electric scissor cutter, cuts 1 - 2 layers at a time. (see Sources - Equipment & tools/Brewer Sewing Supply)
Erasable Fabric Marking Pens - Has a purple/pink marker on one end & an eraser on the other. TIP: Do not iron over markings, fabric can burn.
Grommet Tool - Cuts a hole in fabric & forms grommets. Dies must be purchased for each size grommet. (see Sources - Equipment & tools/Rowley Co.)
Kwik Release Chuck Adapter - Allows you to quickly change shafts or drill bits. (see Sources - Equipment & tools/ Rowley Co.)
Screw Eye Driver Tool & Micro Screw Eye Driver - Set screw eyes in seconds with this tool, a real time saver. Use Micro Driver for Roll-Ease systems. (see Sources - Equipment & tools/ Rowley Co.)
Sewing Machine feet:
1. Cording foot (right) - A channeled foot that rides over top of cording on right side.
2. Cording foot (left) - A channeled foot that rides over top of cording on left side.
3. Couching foot - A foot that zigzags over roman shade cording or multiple cords. (Nancy's Notions)
4. Pin Tuck foot - A foot that makes tiny tucks next to each other. (Nancy's Notions)
5. Ring foot - A foot that holds roman shade rings in place. (Bill's Sewing Equipment)
6. Roller foot - A great foot for sewing napped or slippery fabrics. (Nancy's Notions)
7. Spring foot clamp - Quick way to change feet without a screwdriver. (#MISSFC2 (Bill's Sewing Equipment)
8. Turret foot - Quick way to change feet on a straight stitch machine. This foot looks like a Ferris wheel. Have 3 of your favorite feet attached. Dial desired foot. This foot is custom made. (Bill's Sewing Equipment & Dunlap Sales)
9. Zipper foot - This tiny foot is great for zippers & also perfect for backing off welting. (keeps stitching away from cording) (Atlanta Thread & Supply) (Nancy's Notions)
Staple Lifter - Great for pulling staples out of top treatments or cornices boards. (#T554) (see Sources - Upholstery suppliers/Farber Sales Co., Inc.)
Staple & Tack Remover - Great for pulling staples out of top treatments or cornices boards. (#T2525) (see Sources - Upholstery suppliers/Farber Sales Co., Inc.)
Rod cutter - Cuts weight rods for roman & balloon shades. Cuts Roll-Ease rods. Rod cutter makes task much easier and faster. (see Sources - Equipment & tools/Rowley Co.)
Tagging Gun: Temporarily holds pleats for jabots or box pleats until installation. There are dozens of other uses for this tool. (see Sources - Equipment & tools/QuilTak)
1. Use ¼" tags.
2. Use purple tags for a temporary hold. Easy to spot & clip after installation.
3. Use clear tags for permanent tacking.